Delicious Bologna!

December 27-29, 2022

Our train ride to Bologna was our second experience using the Italian trains. We had heard the trains were easy to use before we arrived; however, we were a bit skeptical! We needn’t have worried! Most people speak English, and everyone is very friendly!

Once we reached Bologna, we began the hike to our hotel. Art Hotel Comerciante was home for our stay. Just outside the hotel entrance was a small glass-covered area in the street, allowing you a glance into the past.  The excavated area under the glass dates back to Roman times!

The morning of our second day in Bologna, we headed to the Santo Stefano Basilica which was built in the eighth century.  As we entered Santo Stefano Basilica, we could hear a voice off in the distance. Following the voice, we discovered that, in one of the naves in the lower level crypt, Mass was being said! What a treat to be able to start our day with Mass! The crucifix that hung behind the main altar was created by artist Simone dei Corcifissi in 1380.  It was beautiful! 

“Delicious Bologna” was the food tour we enjoyed while there. Our guide, Mattias, explained all of the history, culture and traditions of the local flavors. The tour began with coffee at Terzi, where we had a delicious cappuccino. Next, we watched Bruno Franco and his family hand rolling and shaping fresh tortellini. 

On we went to Il Sole, where we tasted Parmigiano  Reggiano, drizzled with balsamic condemento and compared prosciutto di Parma with Culatello di Zibello , which is only available in Bologna and salame rosa with Mortadella.  Additional tastings were salame felino, and ciccioli.  Of course, this tasting experience was enjoyed along with a bottle of Lambrusco! Apparently, the good Lambrusco is saved here in Bologna. They only export the second class stuff!  Our next tasting was of pasta — about time, right? We were able to experience tortellini, which was served in broth, Bologna lasagna, which is made with spinach pasta and Tagliatelle al Ragù. Our tour ended after a delicious gelato! 

As we walked from restaurant to restaurant, our tour guide shared interesting stories of Bologna.  We experienced the whispering walls, where it is said priests heard the confessions of lepers through the distance of the walls without having to be exposed to the illness. 

We also heard a funny story about the famous Neptune statue.  The story’s not G-rated, so you’ll just have to ask me about the details! 

At one point, we walked through an especially quaint neighborhood. As we were taking in the rows of adjoined homes along the narrow streets, we learned this had been a Jewish district for centuries. Heartbreakingly, it was emptied during World War II. This led to quite the somber moment during our tour.  Suddenly, the quaint scene turned to a vision of the terror that this neighborhood experienced. 

Bologna once held over 200 towers!  Today many towers still remain, but not close to the number Bologna once boasted.  Most, if not all, have quite the lean to them as the ground is not stable.

After the tour, we found Little Venice. Bologna, once was home for a huge silk industry.  A system of canals was built during the middle ages, providing water and energy for the factories, watermills, and spinning wheels.  Today, most of the canals have been covered up, but you can still find traces here and there.

In Piazza Maggiore, which is the oldest piazza in Italy, you find the famous Neptune statue. Also, in this piazza, there is a statue labeled with the name of a saint. However, this label is a deception!  The statue is really of Pope Gregory XIII. When the Napoleonic invasion of Italy occurred, all evidence of popes were destroyed in order to seize authority from them.  The local people cleverly relabeled the statue as Saint Petronius, protector and father. It worked!  The statue remains intact today.

Basilica of San Petronio, located adjacent to our hotel!

Bologna boasts over 38 km of porticos throughout the city. This includes the longest portico in the world which leads to the Sanctuary of the Blessed Virgin of San Luca. We had hoped to hike along this portico and tour San Luca, but the day was getting short. Not wanting to miss seeing San Luca, we saved time by taking the trolly.

It was a cloudy day, so we didn’t have the best view from San Luca.  But, on a clear day, I can only imagine the view of the city from this high point on the outskirts of town as being spectacular!

Dinner hour typically begins at 8:00 and is a very leisurely experience. This is quite different from our lifestyle, but is really a very lovely way to end a day!  Several factors combined, causing us to break the cultural norm. One, we have been eating so much food that we didn’t have an appetite for a large meal!  Two, we were exhausted and were looking forward to an early bedtime!  And, finally, tomorrow we are off to Ravenna!