Never Have I Ever!

April 22-28, 2024

High Tide!

I can’t tell you how wonderful it was to simply embrace “Island Time” and get in the groove of the slow sway of the breeze while in South Padre Island!  Maybe the word breeze is a little misleading.  A couple of days had the gentle breeze one typically thinks of.  Other days had a bit stiffer of a breeze.  The weather man on the local news channel had a wind barometer he would refer to.  It used a garbage can for measurement of wind speed – knocked over, in the road, neighbor’s yard, and gone! Never have I ever seen this!  I like a reporter with a little humor!  While we never saw the “gone” wind, we certainly had several “neighbor’s yard” days during our stay.  Regardless of what was happening to the garbage can, the days were low key and delightful!

We thought we would give fishing in Laguna Madre a try while we were there.  It is the stretch of water between Padre Island and the Texas mainland.  The sea was high and, with my tendency towards motion sickness, we thought it wise to stick to calmer waters and save the deep sea fishing for another trip.  We quickly found ourselves aboard Captain Murphy’s boat, Hard Bottom Too, for an afternoon of fishing.  They provided the fishing gear and shrimp for bait so it was quite the easy button.  I managed to snag a catfish, which was a surprise to me!  Never have I ever thought catfish can live in salt water!  It was a quick decision to let it go again, as I was more interested in catching whitefish.  Our biggest lesson on this fishing trip was to not go fishing the day following a big rain.  Oh, well!  Instead of cooking fish for dinner, we went out for fresh fish from Joe’s Oyster Bar.  Delicious!

Joe's - a local's favorite spot!

I’m going to jump on my soapbox for just a minute here, and complain about people feeding wildlife.  One of the other passengers on the boat was dangling shrimp in the air and attracting all kinds of laughing gulls.  Having just had a not-so-pleasant experience with gulls flying overhead, I gently told him that “what goes in has to come out”.  As he continued feeding them, I got more direct and told him not to feed them.  He asked why and promptly told me a story of how he had hand-fed a grackle in the campground and, when he went into his camper, the grackle followed him in.  You would think that would have backed up my attempt at educating him, right?  Good grief, this was not a child I was talking to!  I went through the litany of reasons (turns them into nuisances, makes them lose their natural fear, creates dangerous situations for man and animal alike … only for him to tell me “I don’t believe any of that”.  I followed it up with, “Any naturalist will tell you not to feed them.”  His reply, “I don’t like naturalists.”  I gave up and went back to fishing.  Never have I ever!

Our biggest delight while aboard Hard Bottom Too was the multitude of dolphins who were jumping and playing in front of and alongside our boat!  They were having so much fun as they were given a boost from the wake of the boat.  At one point, there were two mothers and their calves playing alongside of us!  Never have I ever seen such a sight!  Simply adorable!

If you look carefully, you can see the baby snuggled up to Mommy!

You can’t spend time on an island without spending time on the beach!  In fact, we felt we needed to check out a couple of beaches!  My niece, Amanda, had recommended going to Wanna Wanna Inn Beach Bar & Grill, so that was the first beach location we checked out.  It was fun enjoying their special Wanna Wanna drink (rum, tequila, vodka, gin and triple sec with pineapple juice) while our toes were in the sand with a beach umbrella overhead.  One Wanna Wanna drink and I wanna wanna’d a siesta!

Get adapted to the water temperature one step at a time!

As tasty as the drink was, the highlight of this beach was swimming with the sea turtles.  OK, so I was actually only wading knee-deep (chest-deep when a wave would come in) when we started noticing something swimming nearby!  Soon after, there was another – and then another!  When one of them surfaced for a breath of air, their identity was confirmed for us!  Never have I ever waded the shoreline alongside sea turtles!  Later, we learned that this is prime nesting season for the turtles.  In fact, if you see a turtle on the beach, you are required by law to notify officials, who ensure the safety of the eggs being laid.  And, just in case you don’t know, you are not supposed to feed them!

The dark shadow to the right is a sea turtle!

We also spent time on the beach at Isla Blanca County Park.  Once again, we parked our toes in the sand and had a beach umbrella over our heads while we took in the sights and sounds of the gulf.  Even though there were warnings of wind speeds in the “garbage cans in your neighbor’s yard” range, there were kite surfers skilled enough to take on the waves and set sail!  It was interesting to watch one of the surfers carry his board and kite (flying high) from the beach and out into the roaring waves.  He was up and sailing away on his second attempt! Never have I ever attempted, and never would I ever attempt, this extreme sport!  More my style is walking the shoreline looking for sea glass and sea shells, walking along the jetty seeing what the fishermen are catching, and watching the children build sandcastles!

We do love beach time!

A kite surfer is in the background!

In addition to this being prime season for sea turtles to lay their eggs, it is also prime migration period and serious birders had gathered at South Padre Island Birding and Nature Center.  I was thrilled to find three more roseate spoonbills along with so many other beautiful birds.  Birders pointed out a painted bunting to us as well as an indigo bunting.  All on my own I found a yellow warbler, or was it a hooded warbler?  It came and left in a flash, so I’m not absolutely sure.  Whatever it was, it was beautiful!  In the marsh area of the preserve, we came across a flock of black-bellied whistling ducks!  Never have I ever heard of a black-bellied whistling duck and yes, their call does sound like a whistle!

3300 feet of boardwalk!

Stunning bill and feet!

Siesta time for the roseate spoonbills!

Never have I ever seen a hummingbird feeder in the shape of a state!

Big Padre!

South Padre not only offered a beautiful preserve for birds, but also was home to several tortoises and alligators.  The tortoises were formerly pets, but the owners no longer wanted them and relinquished them to the preserve.  I couldn’t resist the opportunity to feed one a bit of lettuce!  I was warned they bite and to be sure to release the lettuce before she reached me.  It sounded like sound advice to me.  Note: Feeding the tortoise was encouraged.  These tortoises are a bit like pets, as they are in captivity and not living in the wild.  Am I sounding a bit like a hypocrite here?  Anyway, never have I ever fed a tortoise before!

The alligators living in the sanctuary are there because they had become nuisance alligators.  Texas law requires nuisance alligators to be either destroyed on the spot or adopted by a sanctuary.  

Conveniently located, we found South Padre Island KOA to call home during our stay.  It’s situated just across the 2-½ mile-long Queen Isabella Bridge.  This allowed us easy access to everything on the island as well as in Port Isabel on the mainland.  This place is situated in a great spot and is so very well maintained.  The entire campground is filled with palm trees and other tropical vegetation.  I’ve never given much thought to the care of palm trees, but never have I ever seen palm trees being pruned!  I guess that might be what it would be called.  A man had climbed to the top of one of the trees and was cutting away last year’s fronds.  He went from tree to tree doing this!  I bet he sleeps good at night!  The campground offered spectacular sunsets as well as evening entertainment with s’mores one evening and an ice-cream social another!

Queen Isabella Bridge connects Port Isabel and South Padre Island

In Port Isabel, we toured Port Isabel Lighthouse which has seen quite its share of history since it was built in 1852.  During the Civil War, Confederate troops controlled the area, using the lighthouse as an observation post.  In 1863, Union troops took control of it and also took advantage of it as an observation post.  Following the war, it was returned to its mission of guiding vessels, but when shipping traffic declined, the lighthouse was abandoned only to be reopened several years later.  This on-and-off pattern seemed to be its destiny until 1905, when it was permanently abandoned.  Today, the lighthouse is once again shining its lamp, this time in an unofficial duty.  Visitors can climb to the top for a view of the area while recreational boats can take advantage of its light to aid in navigation.  

Tasty dinners we enjoyed while here were mostly seafood entrées!  In addition to Joe’s, we ate at Pirate’s Landing and Dirty Al’s.  The food was good, but the ambiance was wonderful!  We couldn’t resist having tables that looked out onto the water!

Pirate's Landing is located on the shoreline behind this laughing gull

As fun as these dinners were, my very favorite meal was being able to join good friends, Ken and Rhonda, virtually for Passover Sader!  There were friends and family gathered virtually from across the US to commemorate the Jews’ exodus from slavery.  It was especially meaningful, as this Sader remembered its beginning as well as events going on in the lives of those around the world today.  

It’s hard to get any closer to Mexico than when you are in South Padre Island.  We just so happened (not coincidently!) to have our passports with us, so we took a road trip for a day and went to Mexico!  We had been told that the safest place to cross was at Progreso, Texas which took about an hour to drive to.  Once there, we parked the truck ($4 for the day) and walked across the bridge into Nuevo Progresso, Mexico!  It cost $1.00 to cross the border into Mexico.  As soon as we were off the bridge, the cacophony of street venders began.  I was quickly overstimulated with venders offering manicures, pedicures, massages, chiropractic care, dental care, prescription medicines as well as those having booths selling jewelry, purses, clothing, drinks and food.  This doesn’t even account for the stores that had workers posted at the front door wanting to invite you in to see what they had for sale.  I did buy a few things and we did find delicious food but never have I ever felt like I was fresh bait thrown to a school of sharks!  

The bridge to cross into Mexico!  Be sure to have 30 cents for the return trip!

Rio Grande River

In two different countries!

The return trip over the Rio Grande was a completely different experience.  The bridge was lined single file with small tents.  With each tent was a family waiting their turn to immigrate legally into the US.  Never have I ever seen such a sight!  I greeted many of them, but it was the family who had reached the front of the line that I stopped and had a conversation with.  They are a young family, parents of a 3- or 4-year-old son.  They had left their home in Russia because they don’t support the Ukrainian War and the father was going to be conscripted.  I asked how long they had been in line.  Their answer – one month!  I have no idea when they left Russia, but they had first gone to Cuba, were now in Mexico, and have hopes of getting to Seattle where they have friends.  They were hot and exhausted, yet still had smiles and loved talking to us.  The young mother told me she is a Christian and we prayed together for their safety and a warm welcome from strangers as they enter into what will be their new home.  Never have I ever so fully understood all the freedoms I have taken for granted.  What brave and courageous people to leave behind so much to start a new life here.  I’ve heard stories in the past, but this encounter was real.  It not only enlightened me but changed me for the better in a powerful way.  It was difficult to walk away from their warm embraces and tear-filled eyes.

The trip back across the bridge and into the United States

On our last night in the campground, we were talking with another couple when he pointed out a group of four “pink flamingo-like birds” flying overhead.  I couldn’t believe it!  Flamingos, no!  It was a group of roseate spoonbills in flight directly over our campground, as if to say “See y’all next time!”  Never have I ever!

Thanks for the flyover, roseate spoonbills! (note: the haze in the air is due to wild fires in Mexico)

Next up:  San Antonio and Fredericksburg